|
|
Useful Tips and Tricks
WAXING
Hot waxing does two things: it breaks down the 'grip' or 'suction' created by the
smooth base whilst sliding over wet snow, and it seals any gaps in the base or side wall
areas, essential for a season at your local dryslope. (On dry, the most common cause of
'board cancer' is water creeping into the gap between the steel edge and the base).
Beneath the edge lie a series of teeth that hold it in place and if they get wet they
rust. The best way to spot this damage is to check along the base of your board where the
steel edge and base meet. Any orange staining to the base is caused by rust. This is bad
because it indicates a separation between the edge and the base. Get to it quick and it's
not terminal, the antidote is regular hot waxing of your board. This will dry out any
water in the gaps, replacing it with molten wax - this is good.
Step-Ins
Before buying step-in, ask yourself 'what's wrong with my current set-up?' Most people buy
steps for the ease of 'clipping in', regardless of whether it'll change their riding for
the worse - after all, you don't want to feel like a hard booting euro-boy, now do you?
The ease of use factor might not be as easy as you think either. Often, a step system will
get clogged with snow and give you tons of forward lean pressure when you don't want it.
The new Burton SI system is the best by a long way.
First the boot although stiff is still a soft boot, comfy to walk around in, drive, hike,
hang at the bar whatever. The only addition to the boot is a ratchet strap over the instep
as you would find on a normal binding and the fixing points which fit to the bindings.
The binding itself again look familiar, still got a base plate, heel loop and high back
but no straps. Steping in is easy just......step in. Getting out is easy just use your
back hand and push down on the outside indicator tab and then roll your foot inwards, now
your foot is free, use it to release your front foot or skate across the flats.
Because the fixing points are on the sides of the boots and made from a tough plastic they
don't attract snow or clogg when you walk. Having the high back on the binding means you
don't have to have loads of forward lean all the time, just when you ride.
Despite feeling soft and unresponsive when standing on the floor in them, once you ride
them you will be amazed at how natural they feel. They respond quickly edge to edge, the
lack of roll in the foot from side to side feel positive and the speed aspect is great,
first tracks all the way!
STANCE
Initially, setting up a board can be nightmare. The more hours you spend on the hill,
the more you'll learn to notice the stance nuances that affect the performance of the
board and theoretically at least, the easier it'll get. For now though, follow this step
by step guide to stance width and angles. Remember though, you might change your angles a
couple of times a day, depending on where you are on the hill.
Wide:But don't make it over 50% of the boards effective edge length. Gives stability when
landing and less weight at either end for control when spinning. BUT! as your feet are
nearer the ends of the board you can't push the whole of the edge into the snow to carve
well.
Narrow:less than the distance from behind your knee to the floor Less stable, but as with
more weight in the centre of the board, the edge sits into the snow making carving your
turns more fluid. BUT!it's a less stable ride.
Low angles:(0-5)(0-5) Good for riding fakie as well as forward. BUT! not so good for
carving at speed.
Meduim angles:(5-15)(0-5) Good all round for all round riding.
Steep angles:(15+)(10+) Great for carving BUT!not good for fakie riding.
Centred stance: Even nose and tail weight, good for spinning and bonking.
Set-back stance: Keeps the nose up in powder and gives the board a more directional feel.
The industry standard for all round riding (if there is one) is: a set back of 25mm from
centre, back foot angle 7 degrees, front foot angle 15 degrees. For stance, the width from
floor to behind your knee. Try this first and from there it should only take minor
adjustments to be ripping, but remember, it all depends on what you want to do.
